Celebrating At Stewart Springs

By "Dana"

Last year, I turned 50. I'm not sure how that happened as I was only 48 the previous year. That is until my sister did the math and pointed out yes I was 50. Argh! What happened to 49? Since the auspicious day was only one month away I had to move quickly to plan something special.

Too late to place a trip to abroad, I focused on something closer to home. Stewart Mineral Springs? "How did I miss this place?" I've been going to hot springs for over 30 years. From natural mud baths in Montana, to underground caves in Colorado, to remote locations in Arizona, I've had amazing experiences. Yet here was a new adventure in the making. One thing really caught my eye, their Native American sweat lodge. I checked the calendar and saw that a sweat was actually scheduled on my birthday.

The short drive off I-5 took me through dehydrated, late summer fields and into a lush, forested valley. I followed my map to the end of the road and stopped before a small sign saying Stewart Mineral Springs, Welcome. I'm always amazed at the stillness I experience after being on the road for hours. Stepping from the car, I stretched, taking several minutes to look around. The fragrant pines were an immense welcome to my senses after the drive. Around me were several rustic buildings and I could hear the gurgle of the creek nearby. So far, so good.

Check-in was easy and the people were nice. They informed me that the last bath was in 15 minutes, "Would you care to take a bath?" the receptionist asked. I wasn't exactly sure what their definition of a 'bath' was but after a six hours in an air conditioned car, there was nothing I'd like better then to get naked in hot water. The sweat lodge ceremony was the next day at 6 pm she told me as I headed towards my lodgings. Number 13 stood alone, nestled in the trees. From his roof perch, a stellar jay watched me unload my bags and walk up the stairs. 'Hello you too' I said as I turned the key in the lock.

I schlepped the rest of my bags, food, and well-traveled, red teapot to the cabin. After depositing the goods in the fridge, I poked around the bathroom and bounced on the bed. Everything was clean, tidy and obviously well-maintained. I was very pleased to see a small, wood stove but decided that it would be unnecessary this late summer and draped my grubbly travel clothes on it.

Comfortable in my sweats, I headed to the bathhouse. I crossed over the creek on a wonderful, timber, walking bridge. I wanted to hang over the edge and let the moving water mesmerize me a bit but I'd have time later to check out the grounds. I was on a mission! Entering the bathhouse through the gift shop, I was greeted by an attendant. She took my bath coupon explaining the bath experience. First, I was assigned a private room with a clawfoot bathtub. She briefly left to fill the tub and then we walked down one short wing to a large, wooden door that she opened. I was immediately engulfed in hot, fragrant air. I peeked inside and saw a windowed firebox at the back of the sauna. Flames were dancing around several logs and the embers provided a soft glow illuminating a large, bench lined room. Aromatic cedar filled my lungs as we closed the door. After the bath and sauna, she suggested a plunge in the pool. Pool? What pool? She led me to the outside deck and pointed to the large, natural rock-walled pool that had been crafted in the creek. I noticed a sign on the wall with today's water temperature, 53 degrees. The plunge won't take long, I thought as I headed back to my room.

I lit the candle provided and slid into the bath. The water was divine and a perfect temperature. With my 6' body completely submerged in the large tub and I felt like I was enveloped in warm, velvet. Blissed out, I gently floated and let the day's travel evaporate. The water was divine and honestly, I don't think I'd ever felt this kind of softness in a mineral bath. Before I completely felt my toes shrivel inside out, I wrapped a sheet around me and headed to the sauna. Typical of most saunas, the large room had two tiers of wooden benches for sitting or reclining. Even though there were several other bathers present, I had space to stretch out and breathe the cedar-scented air. People respectfully came and went. Soon, it was my turn to leave the glow of the sauna and head for my plunge – I love that word!

I'm generally not anxious about jumping into brisk, river water but after baking myself, I decided the quick plunge approach was wiser than the slow, squinching, method. One swift dunk in the two foot rock pool and several refreshing but pathetic breast strokes across took my breath away. I crawled out on an adjoining bench to catch the sun. As I watched the water tumble over the rocks, I felt very close to nature and the spirit of the springs.

I scurried back to my room and once again immersed myself in the water. A curious thing happened. Being a ceramic artist and Reiki teacher, my hands are especially sensitive. As I relaxed further, I felt the palms of my hands and the soles of my feet tingle and throb with surges of energy. They felt like they were wide open and filled with a tremendous flow of light. Slowly, this feeling spread up my limbs and into my body until there were no boundaries between the water and me.

I woke up Saturday to the reality of being officially middle age. Ugh, horrid phrase that. After lunch and another amazing bath, I took a short walk upstream looking for a place to just sit and be. Paralleling the creek, I passed other lodgings, the springs Source House, and was quickly alone in the woods. After several hundred yards of boulder hopping, I sat on a large rock surrounded by shallow, swift moving waters. With the warming, late afternoon sun on my back, I dangled my feet in the small pool, feeling the currents swirling around my ankles. What a truly special place this is. The combination of the energy of the land and the water was one I had not experienced in my travels. I was still for a very long time, again feeling a connection, as with my first bath. To my surprise, I heard a drum beat. Wow, I thought, I have a great imagination! I opened my eyes and realized the sound was real and announced beginning of the pre-sweat ceremonies.

About an hour later, I walked towards the sweat lodge. Earlier, when I told the bath attendant that I was planning on celebrating my birthday by taking a sweat, she explained ceremony etiquette. I approached the group with a bit of my own insecurities about being a new comer but also with an open heart, excited for another experience. The drum beater was Walking Eagle, elder tribesman of the Karuk and leader of the sweat lodge ceremony. Just before we entered the lodge, he came up to me and said he was deeply honored that I chose to celebrate this day with a sweat. Walking Eagle held my hand and thanked me. I was thinking, are you kidding? I'm the one honoring you and this amazing ceremony. Thank you, it is my honor as well, I replied.

I left Stewart Springs several days later. The mineral waters had worked their enchanting magic and I felt balanced and at peace. Between the baths and the sweat, both body and spirit had been purified in a most meaningful way.

As I write this, I am once again feeling a deep connection with the land and the magical, healing waters of the springs. Perhaps it's time to celebrate the lost 49th year with another visit.

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